Improvement in instruments foe guiding tailors in cutting out coats and vests



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HERRMANN MENGEL, OFy PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

Letters Patent No. 61,349, dated January 22, 1867.

IMPROVEMENT IN INSTRUMENTS FOB. GUIDING TAILORSYIN CUTTING OUT GOA'I'S AND VESIS.

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Be it known that I, HERRMANN MENGEL, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented an Instrument for Guiding Cutters-Out of Coats and Vests; and I- do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of thel same,refercnce being had to the accompanying drawing, and to the letters of reference marked thereon. I

y My invention consists of the combination of adjustable graduated strips, fully describedhcreafter, whereby the shape of pieces of fabric for mak-ing coats and vests can be readily an'd accurately determined.

`In order to enable others to makeand use my invention, I will now proceed to describe its construction and operation.' On reference to the accompanying` drawing, which forms a part of this specicationf- Figure 1 represents my improved instrument for guiding cuttersout of coats and vests, the parts in this View being adapted to the marking out of the front pieces -of vests.

Figure 2, a View of the instrument, inodiiied in form, and arranged to facilitate the cutting out of the back `pieces of a rest; andA Figure 3, a diagram, showing the points on the body where measurements must be made in order that the instrument may be properly adjusted.

A and B (fig. l) are thin plates of metal or other suitablc material, which are so secured together as to be adjustable longitudinally in respect to each other; and to the plate'B are secured two adjustable strips, G D. An adjustable strip, E, of the form shown in the drawing, is secured bye. pin, to one end of the plate A, on which are engraved or marked three' scales, 1, 2, and 13. On the plate B is a scale, 3, and on the strips C D and E are scales 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9; 10, 11, and 12, all the said scales being arranged and graduated as shown in .the drawing. In the modification of the instrument shown iu iig. 2 the plates A aud D are secured together so as to be adjustable in respect to each other, in the same manner as tl e plates A and B, and from one end of the plate B project two arms, G G. To the plate B is secured au adjustable strip, c', and to one end of the plate A is secured an adjustable strip, E', ofthe form shown in the drawing. On the plates A and B are scales, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 27, and on the'strips C and E are scales 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, and 26, which are arranged and graduated as shown in the drawing. i

Before proceeding to cut a garment from a piece of cloth, the following measurements must be taken of the person for whom'V the garment is intended 1. From the point a to the point a (fig. 3) over-,the shouider.A In a well-formed person this distance is generally about fteen inches.

2. From a to b, at a point back of the neck, as high as the collar is to extend, about twelve inches.

3: From a to d, (the\hlp,) about nine inches. i

4, From a to c, at the middle of the back, about twelve inches.

5. Round the chest, at the height of a, about thirty-six inches.l

6. Round thc waist, just above d, about thirty-two inches.

'i'. From b to waist infront, as far down as the point of the vest is to extend.

8. From a to b, about ten inches.

The instrument is now placed ou the cloth, and arranged as shown in g. 1, the parts being adjusted according to the measurements as follows: The graduated edge of the strip D is supposed tov represent the position of the line a a c, andes the first measure, from a to a', over the shoulder, is ifteen inches, the plate B is adjusted so that the edge of xthe strip shall befeven with the line 15 on the scale 1i The distance from a to c being twelve inches, the strip D is adjusted so that the line 12 of the scale 9 shall be even with'the ledge ofthe plateA; a mark is then made on the cloth aty, at the end of the strip D. As the measure from a toI b is twelve-inches, the strip E is adjusted unt-i1 its lower edge x is even with the line 12 on the scale `13; and as the distance from a to d is nine inches, the strip C (the edge of which is supposed to represent the position of the line round the waist at d) lis adjusted until its upper edge is even with thev line 9 of the scalevS. A line, lm, is now drawn on the cloth, with the edge of the strip as a guide, and the strip is inclined in proportion to thc extent to which the point of the vest is to descend below the waist '.liue. As the distance round the chest is thirty-six inches, the cloth is marked at the points y1 y2 g/i gyy, opposite the lines 35 in the scales 2, 12, 10,

. 11', and 8; and as' the distance-round the waist is thirty-two inches, marks are made on4 the cloth at the 'points g1g/sys y0, Opposite the line 32 in the scales '5, 4, (i, ,and 7.-, The instrument is no w removed from the cloth, and straight lines are drawn between the points y* y and gland gf. Curved lines are then drawn between the points y y1 and y* g/a line slightly curved is drawn from g/ to y" through y", and another from y; to ys through l1/6 and y" a line is then drawn fronrg/3 to g/l through y2. The cloth is then cnt on or near these lines', and the piece thus detachcdwill be' of 'a proper shape to forni one-half the front of the vest; the corresponding half may then be marked and cut from that first made. The instrument'of the modiiied form shown in iig. 2 is then laid on the cloth, and is adjusted as follows: The edgesof the arms Gl Gr4Z are supposed to represent the position of the breast line a a', and the edge of the strip C the position of the waist line d; the strip C is therefore brought to a position even with the line 9 in the scale 16,--inasmuch as the lines a a' and d, according to the third meas# urement, are nine inches apart. As the distance from a to a over the shoulder is fifteen inches', the plate B is adjusted until the edge of the' arm Gi'is even with the linel in the scale 27; and asthe distance from a to b is ten inches, the strip E is, adjusted unt-il its edge, 11:', even with the line 10 in the scale 15. l As 'the breast measure is thirty-six, marks are made on the cloth at the points z z e z2 zu, opposite the lines 36 in the scales 22, 21, 20, 19, and lines are drawn on the cloth between the points zel .el-"faz, the edges ofthe strip E serving as guides. If, however,- the breast measure was lessv thanl thirty-six inches, (thirty-four, fo-instancc,) the 4marks on the cloth should be made to correspond to the lines 34 in said scales. Asthe distance from a to ais twelve inches, the cloth is marked at e and ed, opposite the lines 12 on the scales 17 and 18; and as the waist measure is thirty-two inches, the cloth is marked at the points y7 yB y y", opposite the lines 32 in thel scales 23, 24; 25, 26. The instrument is then removed from the cloth, and a curvedline is drawn from the Vpoint :fthrough the point zZ to the point e6; a line slightly eurvedis drawn from zr through 27 to z, a slightly curved 1in-e is drawn4 from sito zo, andanother fronre9 to zthrough the points z" z. The clothis now cut at ornear the lines marked on the same, the piece thus detached being of the proper size and shape to form one-halt' the backof, therest.

' The corresponding half is then cut from the eloth,ju sing the iirst as a pattern.

When the measurements ofthe person for whom the garment is intended differ from those'named, the parts of'the'instrument are adjusted accordingly, andthe marks and lines ou the cloth are drawn between other points on the scales. A similar instrument, having scales' with longer degrees, may be used for facilitating the cutting of coats and outer garments.

Without conning myself to the precise'constru'ction and arrangement of parts herein described, or to any special arrangements -or graduation of the` scales, I claim as my invention, and desire to secure byv Letters Patent y A. plate A and adjustable strip E, in combination with an adjustable plate B, adjustable strip C, and strip D, orits equivalent, the whole being constructed, graduated, and arranged substantially as and for the purpose described.

In testimony whereof I have signed myjname to this specification in the presenceof two subscribing witnesses.

' HERRMANN MENGEL.

Witnesses:

CHAnLnsE. Fosrnn, JOHN WHITE. 

